Breakfast in Korcula

This morning after first admiring the view from my balcony, I stepped out to explore the old town of Korcula, on Korcula island, where Marco Polo was born.

I think I may have been the only tourist in town. I have been getting apologies at the last few stops for the lack of activity and people. Sure, there was no one around and everything was closed but I don't like crowds so this was perfect. I turned down one quiet little street and someone popped out and said hello ... how are you ... where are you from ... won't you join me for a drink?

Simon from Macedonia has been living in Croatia for 31 years with his wife, who loves him too much, and his two brilliant daughters.

What would you like to drink? Coffee? Well, I'd have to make that, so how about some wine?

It was 8.30.

I sipped a bit from the huge glass of red that he poured me, and he continued with whatever it was he had already been drinking. We talked about how wonderful Korcula is, the beauty of old stone, Alexander the Great, his adoring wife, and the surprising complete lack of tourists. He has numerous guesthouses in town and the little bar we were sitting in. Everybody knows Simon.

After I left Simon the first thing I did was look for a pastry shop. This was the perfect excuse to have a yummy cheese strudel to soak up that alcohol.

Have a great day.

Everywhere!

on every street, around every corner, sometimes more than one


ever since entering Slovenia I have been seeing this woman everywhere... and here in Croatia as well

Why is everything uphill?

On the way to Zadar I am stopping for 2 nights/1 day in Plitvice Lakes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, for its 16 lakes and the waterfalls and cascades all connected by footpaths and bridges. It is said to be beautiful no matter the weather. Good thing, cuz it is going to continue raining until at least Thursday.

The bus inconveniently dropped me off at the park entrance, which was closed and is between 2 small villages. There is however a big fancy hotel at the entrance, so I went in to use the toilet and to get instrux to the nearest village, where I could find a much cheaper room in a private home.

The concierge explained the direction of the foot path thru the forest to the village. I pulled out my umbrella and set off. It would only be about 1km he said, but immediately there were stairs and the path was pretty much all uphill. I love walking and this path was thru a beautiful forest with magnificent fall colours, even more beautiful in the rain. It wasn't windy, nor was it too cold, but it would be more enjoyable without my pack.

When I got to the village I didn't see any 'sobe/zimmer/rooms' signs. But I did see a woman typing in an office, so I walked in, said hello, and asked if she knew where I could find a room. She phoned her father. She didn't know the price but he was on his way in the car. When he arrived he said 220 kuna/night with breakfast. I tried 300 for 2 nights, no breakfast. He wasn't interested, so neither was I. He got in his car and drove off.

I asked his daughter for the directions to the rest of the town since I really couldn't see much ahead. Just down some stairs and off to the left there was already a house with a sign. I knocked, he answered, I asked. 120 kuna/night. I offered 200/2 nights. He said sorry. I smiled, accepted and we shook hands. Can't be too picky in a very small village, on a Sunday, out of season, in the rain, with the sun setting. The room is perfect. Can't imagine what more the other guy was offering.

I am now in the only eatery in town, a good ol' pizzeria, enjoying a funghi pizza and watching a pregnant Schwarzenegger on the TV.

For dessert I have a piece of delicious chocolate/apple/cheese layer cake that Andreja sent me off with this morning. Andreja hosted me in Zagreb and her mom is quite the cook!

Hiking in the rain in the morning.

Ithaca

When you set out on your journey to Ithaca,
pray that the road is long,
full of adventure, full of knowledge.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
the angry Poseidon -- do not fear them:
You will never find such as these on your path,
if your thoughts remain lofty, if a fine
emotion touches your spirit and your body.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
the fierce Poseidon you will never encounter,
if you do not carry them within your soul,
if your soul does not set them up before you.

Pray that the road is long.
That the summer mornings are many, when,
with such pleasure, with such joy
you will enter ports seen for the first time;
stop at Phoenician markets,
and purchase fine merchandise,
mother-of-pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
and sensual perfumes of all kinds,
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
visit many Egyptian cities,
to learn and learn from scholars.

Always keep Ithaca in your mind.
To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for many years;
and to anchor at the island when you are old,
rich with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting that Ithaca will offer you riches.

Ithaca has given you the beautiful voyage.
Without her you would have never set out on the road.
She has nothing more to give you.

And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience,
you must already have understood what Ithacas mean.

Constantine P. Cavafy (1911)