22.6.05

the end has come


There was only one more thing to be done... see the Great Wall. And that was yesterday. We hiked an untouristed 30 tower, 10 km section from Jinshanling to Simitai. It was only 10 km, but it was 90% stairs (tall stairs) and 90% uphill (where was the down??) and it was in the heat of the day. I walked with Marci from Vancouver.

One moment I'm glad to be leaving for the comforts of the homeland, the next I am sad to be leaving China so soon. There's so much more I want to do. If there's a next time, I'd study the language here for a few weeks before I'd set off traveling - I want to talk, find out what's really happening here, and of course, have better luck with food.

I won't miss the squalor, the nose-blowing onto the street, the nose routing, the horns, the smoking, the retching sound of the ejection of phlegm, the elbowing, staring, shouting and pushing... the train tables smeared with food and grease, piles of sunflower seeds and pools of unknown liquids on the floor, mothers aiding children with their slit trousers to urinate (on buses, trains, flowerbeds, anywhere), the suffocating heat.

I will miss smiling and saying hello. Sure, the kids who point and giggle (or scream), who mock me with their repeated hallooowww, hallooowww, or those who stare open-mouthed make me a little crazy. But I have spent my days during the last 6 months saying hello - saying hello to break a stare, saying hello to return a hello, and saying hello to get a hello, and seriously, the responses have been the highlight of my traveling.

I think if I try hello-ing at home, I'll be perceived as psycho.

BUT I found a shirt. Everywhere people are wearing bad-English t-shirts. It's sooo tempting to walk up to them, point to their shirt and say boo ming bai. So I've been looking for my own bad-English shirt.

I missed out on one in the Philippines because they didn't have my size. On the t-shirt was written Beauty is a white sin - or maybe it was White beauty is a sin - either way I thought it was a very provocative t-shirt. This is in an area of the world where the store shelves are loaded with creams, lotions, toners, soaps, pills, teas that promise to whiten your skin. And we buy dark, medium, and light self-tanners.

Anyway, I found a little white t-shirt here in Beijing that I thought was appropriately bad-English - your smile make me happy.

Now it's time to move on to other things.

16.6.05

What the Chinese Yuan will buy

CDN 1 = CNY 6.7

Pepsi 500 ml - 3.5
bottle of water 750 ml - 1.5
Tsintao beer 630 ml - 2.0
McDonald's Big Mac - 10.5 (no, I haven't been eating them!)
Starbucks daily coffee - 15.0 (occasionally, only found in Beijing)
noodle soup - 2-5
avg lunch/dinner in small eatery - <> 15
roll of toilet paper - 1.0
bananas inYunnan province - small bunch for 1.0
bananas north of Yunnan - not possible to get more than one banana for less than 1.5
Potala Entrance fee - 100
city bus - 1, or 2 for air-con bus
Beijing subway - 3
intercity bus ticket - roughly it is about 10/hour of trip
train tickets slightly cheaper than buses

All transportation that is Beijing bound is about double.

Cheapest trip - 30 for 11 hr train trip from Hohhot to Erlianhot on the Mongolian border
Beijing bound - 182 for 11 hr trip, hard sleeper night train

Salaries:
Summer - 28 yr old train policeman on Pingyao-Beijing route - 1500/mo
Guan - 23 yr old university grad in hotel marketing, Yinchuan - 1000/mo
Albert - cafe owner in Yunnan said the avg salary in the area was 500/mo
Beijing - avg salary about 2000/mo reported by French guy studying in China for 2 years

So, I'm wondering who is buying all the cars, cameras and drinking at Starbucks? Same French guy was told the wealthy Chinese make up about 10% of the population, altho this is hard to verify.

13.6.05

"In China, cigarettes are a kind of miracle drug"

Smoking may not be killing them, but being a second hand smoker is killing me - cough, cough!!

Sometimes, only sometimes, there are No Smoking signs around - like on buses and on trains. But nobody takes them seriously. And usually they look at me like I'm odd when I motion in some way that the smoke in my face is making it difficult for me to breathe. While I've been in China I've only seen one woman who smoked - and she sat across from me on the train.

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/ArticleNews/TPStory/LAC/20050611/CHINA11/TPInternational/Asia

By GEOFFREY YORK
Saturday, June 11, 2005

GUIYANG, CHINA -- Here's some exciting medical news from the Chinese government: Smoking is great for your health.

Cigarettes, according to China's tobacco authorities, are an excellent way to prevent ulcers. They also reduce the risk of Parkinson's disease, relieve schizophrenia, boost your brain cells, speed up your thinking, improve your reactions and increase your working efficiency. And all those warnings about lung cancer? Nonsense.
You're more likely to get cancer from cooking smoke than from your cigarette habit.

Welcome to the bizarre parallel universe of China's state-owned tobacco monopoly, the world's most successful cigarette-marketing agency. With annual sales of 1.8 trillion cigarettes, the Chinese monopoly is responsible for almost one-third of all cigarettes smoked on the planet today.

If you believe the official website of the tobacco monopoly, cigarettes are a kind of miracle drug: solving your health problems, helping your lifestyle, strengthening the equality of women, and even eliminating loneliness and depression.

"Smoking removes your troubles and worries," says a 37-year-old female magazine editor, quoted approvingly on the website. "Holding a cigarette is like having a walking stick in your hand, giving you support.
"Quitting smoking would bring you misery, shortening your life."

Such statements are widely believed in China.

Two-thirds of Chinese men are smokers, and surveys show that as many as 90 per cent believe their habit has little effect on their health, or is good for them.

Even in China's medical community, 60 per cent of male doctors are smokers. Few are aware of the studies forecasting that cigarettes will soon be responsible for one-third of all premature deaths among Chinese men.
Little wonder that Western tobacco companies are hungrily circling the Chinese market, lobbying eagerly for entry into this lucrative market of 360 million smokers, the biggest market in the world.

So far, 99 per cent of the market is controlled by the Chinese monopoly, but Western tobacco companies are convinced they will soon crack it, especially now that China is a member of the World Trade Organization and is obliged to reduce its tariffs on foreign cigarettes.

For the anti-smoking movement, China is the ultimate challenge. Nonetheless, this week, a group of Canadian experts arrived in southwestern China in a bid to convince Chinese smokers that cigarettes might not be quite as beneficial as they believe.

They distributed anti-smoking posters, visited cancer patients, showed the graphic warnings on Canadian cigarette packs, and lectured on how the anti-smoking campaign has reduced Canada's lung-cancer rate. But they admitted that they face an uphill struggle in a country where the tobacco industry provides 60 million jobs and 10 per cent of national tax revenue.

"The magnitude of the problem is overwhelming," said Jean Couture, a Quebec surgeon who has been travelling to China since 1990 to work on cancer-education programs.

"In China today, the economy comes first and everything else is secondary, including health care," Dr. Couture said. "You wonder if anyone in the government is conscious of how great the smoking problem is. There's no public education program. The Chinese anti-smoking association is very weak and has almost no money. Within 20 years, China could have the majority of all smoking deaths in the world."

Chinese doctors have called Dr. Couture a "second Norman Bethune" -- a reference to the Canadian surgeon who became a Chinese hero after dying while giving care to Chinese Communist soldiers in 1939. The Quebec doctor, who has helped create an 80-bed cancer unit at a hospital in northeastern China, is now leading an anti-smoking campaign in four Chinese provinces.

When the Canadians arrived this week in Guizhou province in southwestern China, they were worried about the power of the local tobacco industry. The province is filled with tobacco farms and cigarette factories. As they distributed posters at a hospital in one of Guizhou's biggest cities yesterday, the Canadians saw a number of people smoking in the hospital. A hospital shop was openly selling cigarettes.

"The tobacco industry is so huge and the anti-tobacco movement is so weak," said Mark Rowswell, a Canadian television personality and Chinese celebrity (under the name Da Shan), who helps promote the anti-smoking campaign. "What we're doing is just a drop in the ocean."

While smoking rates have fallen sharply in Canada in the past two decades, the rate in China is still rising.
"Ten years ago, when we first came to China, it was unheard of for young women to smoke," said Nicole Magnan, executive director of the Quebec division of the Canadian Cancer Society, who was in the Canadian delegation this week. "Now there are more and more of them."

While China has proclaimed that the 2008 Beijing Olympics will be a smoke-free Olympics, it has done little to discourage smoking. The number of Chinese smokers is growing by three million a year, despite an estimated 1.3 million tobacco-related deaths annually.

Chinese cigarettes are cheap -- as little as 30 cents a pack -- and the health warnings are hidden in small print on the sides of the packages. Though cigarette advertising is technically illegal, tobacco companies are allowed to promote their corporate names. When sprinter Liu Xiang won a gold medal for China at the Athens Olympics last summer, he promptly went out and filmed a television commercial for China's biggest cigarette company.
Children can easily buy cigarettes at Chinese shops, despite an official ban on sales to those under the age of 18. "Shop owners never refuse to sell us cigarettes," said one 16-year-old boy who was smoking as he played pool near a Guizhou school this week.

"They only care about money."

Che Chuangao, a construction worker, started smoking when he was 20. "More than 90 per cent of my friends smoked, so I couldn't be different," he said. "And it's helpful for my work. Offering a cigarette is a social greeting, whenever you meet a friend or a stranger. I know that smoking isn't good. Once I stopped smoking for a month or two. But my friends persuaded me to smoke again."

While their task is daunting, the Canadians are scoring some small successes. After listening to a speech by the Canadians this week, 27-year-old medical student Li Dongbo said he was inspired to work on anti-smoking projects.

The student's uncle, who had smoked for 30 years, died of lung cancer in February. To spare his feelings, his family had never told him the truth about his illness.

"I was shocked," Mr. Li said. "The government should be doing more. We need promotion campaigns to tell people about it."

10.6.05

Very, very curious

7 p.m. - a perfect evening in Zhongwei. I went to see the sand dunes along the Yellow River today and it had cooled down from a very hot afternoon.

I was sitting in the public plaza outside the train station waiting for the night train to Hohhot (ho-huh-ha-te), the capital of the province of Inner Mongolia. Everybody was enjoying the plaza. They were playing badminton, Chinese hackey-sac, taking pictures of each other, chatting with friends. Chinese music started playing and then the fountain began dancing.

I had a bench to myself so I pulled out my journal to write about the day.

I soon noticed a young couple move to my side to try to peek at my writing. Then a few others in front of me were trying to catch a peek too.

I motioned for the young woman to come over. Using my phrase book, I tried to communicate that what I was doing was simple and that Chinese writing was very difficult and much more interesting. She gently took my journal and wrote something in Chinese. I apologized and said, as usual, boo ming bai (I feel so pathetic). I asked again if she understood what I was trying to tell her. She smiled and nodded.

Then I looked up. I counted. There were now 20 people crowded around. As some left, others came over. They stared at me and my writing, and talked amongst themselves - gee, I wish I knew what they were saying.

After a short while, I decided I should let them get on with their night. So I closed my journal, put on my pack and said bye-bye.

4.6.05

Not unusual...

It was a rough day with lots of travel and haggling with taxi drivers, which I normally don't do, but didn't have much choice. But I'm back and I should eat. I haven't eaten since this morning when I had 10 bao-zir - tiny little dumplings.

However, it's early, before dinnertime, which is a problem. I usually order by looking at what others have on their table and pointing to something that looks good. Nobody is eating yet.

Menus in China of course are not written in English and rarely do they have pictures, so they are meaningless to me.

I walked into the restaurant and tried ordering some good ol' standbys, but the girls weren't helpful at all and just kept saying may-yo - no. In southern China it was easier. They expected you to come in and point to the ingredients that you liked on their shelves and they would whip you up something. But it seems here it is strictly by the menu. I kept trying... I finally asked for chao myen. Ok, they said. One of the girls came back soon though and said in English no noodles. So I asked for chao fun (fried rice). Ok. Then she came back and asked if I wanted rice with that. Hmm, wonder what I'm getting cuz I thought I ordered rice.

While I was waiting, my beer arrived. I was looking forward to a nice cold beer after a rough day. But the beer wasn't cold. I keep forgetting that it is something I need to ask for. Oh well.

Then my chao fun arrived - and it was a plate of noodles.

I realized that it is not that I have lost my appetite, it's that my appetite has given up.

3.6.05

Note to self

email down
internet slow

article on Mao to check again later:
CHINA Must Confront Dark Past, says Mao confidant
http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,1496991,00.html